Show notes for Emilia Wickstead’s spring/summer 18 collection cited the Harlem Renaissance as inspiration for her colour palette and silhouettes. The intellectual, social and artistic explosion in Harlem, New York, spanning the 1920s, saw a difference in Emilia Wickstead’s collection. By exploring the clothing worn to infamous jazz clubs and hotspots, she presented a slightly racier collection and a more risqué side to her signature high button aesthetic.
Opening the show, was a more demure look with a white high necked blouse and matching wide leg trousers. Wickstead’s signature neatly tailored and streamlined silhouettes shone through in her collection, yet the black lace-up detailing on the sleeves added to a more modern look. In contrast to her first look, translucent and sheer fabrics displayed a racier and sexier tone to her collection. The grey sheer oversized shirt, paired with blue acid wash mom jeans and white Mary Jane style T-bar heels showed a simple and understated look, can remain chic and sexy.
With translucent looks recognised as a top trend for SS18, Wickstead presented variations with dresses, shirts and knee length coats. Despite her feminine and ladylike aesthetic remaining prominent in her designs, the sheer fabrics and exposed skin introduced something she has not displayed before. The sheer knee length coat, certainly alluded to the #freethenipple movement; emphasising the female body form and femininity. The colour palette for the collection remained subtle, monochromatic looks and shades of pastels, in addition to the odd pop of colour with a bold yellow and scarlet red.
Spotlight’s particular favourite was the duck egg blue, ankle grazing dress with an elegant drape across the shoulders, ensuring a balance between demure yet feminine and sexy. The collection also featured striped, vintage florals, again a hot trend for SS18. Paired with her signature high neck aesthetic, the vintage florals were on a sheer fabric to create a more contemporary look with English garden vibes. In addition to the vintage florals, bows were also prevalent on the runway. Floor sweeping coat dresses featured Marie Antoinette style bow detailing, exuding femininity and the signature Emilia Wickstead styling.
To close the show, shimmering bronze jumpsuits and dresses were without a doubt show-stopping. The sequin gowns emitted and reflected light as the models strut down the runway, paired with matching shoes and bag, the bronze looks were undeniably modern yet feminine.
Freelance fashion stylist, Daisy Hopper, reveals her opinion on Wickstead’s SS18 collection, commenting on the unlikely inspiration and love of sheer fabrics, “although I don’t see the Harlem Renaissance and Jazz inspiration behind the collection, I think Emilia Wickstead’s SS18 collection is a true reflection of her talent. From tailoring skills to evolving her signature style, the sheer, racier collection was a true winner for me.”
Overall Emilia Wickstead presented a more modern and wearable collection, with a balance of demure yet sexy. The signature modest tailoring mixed with plunging necklines, keyhole cut outs and exposed skin revealed a racier side to the renowned designer. The use of wide sunhats tied beneath the chin and blousy sleeves added a touch of Wickstead’s aesthetic.
Despite citing the Harlem Renaissance as inspiration behind her collection, a casting of more diverse models would have worked in her favour, translating the cultural inspiration behind the collection and ensuring the show remained more memorable.
Backstage at Alberta Ferretti’s spring/summer 18 show, the designer herself was reported to have said “I don’t want too many things,” whilst signalling ruffles and frills with hand movements. “Every once in a while we have to evolve and initiate changes. But obviously it’s still Alberta Ferretti,” she said backstage to press reporters, suggesting a spring reinvention.
The opening of the collection bears no resemblance to Alberta Ferretti at all. Taming her ethereal signatures to more minimalist silhouettes; the Alberta Ferretti collection opened with a selection of chic bathing suits. Models made their way down the runway in black one-pieces, studded jelly sandals and nylon windbreakers, with few accessories to create a chic summer look.
The looks were simple and understated, yet the oversized floppy hats and dark shades gave the effortless summer athleisure looks an, Alberta-style touch. The bathing suits showed variety in silhouettes, with plunging necklines, halter necks and tie up detailing. The streamlined silhouettes continued with an array of halter neck dresses and plunge front jumpsuits, channelling a day-to-night transition.
In addition to Ferretti’s all black bathing suits, chiffon and sheer fabrics were also popular. Nude, sheer sequin fabric in a matching top, jacket and shorts which glistened under the lighting, created the perfect casual outfit for those late summer nights. Beachy cover ups and jumpsuits in shades on nudes and bronze presented a simple yet stylish collection perfect for holidaying in the summer.
Adding a pop of colour to the collection, Ferretti followed in suit by featuring shades of pastels, a top trend for SS18. Luminous silk lamé trousers and button down shirts in shimmering metallic pastel shades were subtle and causal yet eye-catching looks, with the shirts tied at the navel reflecting an elusive nineties inspiration.
Bright coral garments also stood out against the mundane colour scheme, with a Grecian style dress reminding us of Alberta Ferretti’s signature silhouettes. The evening wear was no doubt the highlight of the show; displaying various surface embellishments which created movement as the models sashayed down the runway. Sheer fabrics, appliqué, feathers and drapes showed a contrast to the minimalist bathing suits, displaying Alberta Ferretti’s skill and talent.
The diverse selection of models was praised, with the subtle colour palette complementing the range of skin tones. The hair had a slight wet-look feel, pulled back into a knotted braid and accompanied with dark smudged eyeliner and soft lips, created a high fashion, hot summer look. The collection presented more simplified and casual looks, with the odd Grecian gown highlighting Alberta Ferretti’s signature style.
Rodarte’s Paris Fashion Week debut was met with outstanding reviews and a standing ovation, another first in 12 years. Staged in a 16th century cloister of a hospital and garden of an old abbey on the West Bank in Paris, accompanied by installations of English roses, the venue looked breath-taking and organic. The Mulleavy sisters delicate Parisian collection seemed right at home at PFW.
According to the sisters, their collection was in part inspired by the 1970s mystery thriller, Three Women by Robert Altman. This inspiration can be loosely translated to the chosen colour palette for the collection, a pale palette of blues, pinks and yellows contrasting several bolder tones such as a vivid magenta and scarlet red.
The models wore pastel coloured romantic dresses and separates, embellished with embroidery, leather, python, ruffles and sheer fabric. The abundance of delicate baby’s breath added to the romantic, gentle aura. The floral arrangements were by Joseph Free, an LA based floral designer whom has previously collaborated with the sisters. The baby’s breath was delicately incorporated into the hair styling as well as bouquets dragged behind the model, which certainly perfected the floral collection. The make-up was kept natural and light complementing the models flawless complexion
Hair and make-up artist, Jessica Wilkin, reinforces how the delicate touches enhanced the SS18 show, “the delicate details from the baby’s breath entwined in the hair, to the subtle floral details on the body and nails add to the romance and daintiness of the collection.”
Rodarte too displayed sheer tulle fabrics with delicate ruffles in shades of pastels, from lemon to baby pink. Floral print chiffon dresses and jumpsuits exuded romanticism and fantasy, a trait of many Rodarte collections. Several looks featured gentle embellishments, studded with pearls, ostrich feathers, caviar beads and polka dots. Several looks displayed a contrast in fabrics and materials, with a motorsport jacket and trouser studded with pearls appearing in contrast to the delicate tulle. Worn with an interesting style leather shaft boots and snakeskin detailing, suggests Rodarte wanted to add a tougher edge to their romantic collection. However, gold floral shaped arm cuffs, shoulder-dusting earrings and gold belts with bows took away from the delicate and exquisite dresses.
Kate and Laura Mulleavy certainly triumphed at their first Paris Fashion Week, with elevated beauty and romanticism forming the foundation for their collection. The motorsport looks didn’t quite suit their delicate floral surroundings, however the sisters’ ambition to translate their aesthetic into wearable, day-to-day clothing certainly paid off. The polka dot dresses and soft sheer tulle tick all the boxes for anyone wanting to stay on trend this summer.
Show notes for Molly Goddard’s SS18 collection read: “My doctor told me to watch my drinking. Now I drink in front of the mirror.” The carefree, relaxed and celebratory atmosphere shone through her collection. After triumphing the London fashion scene for three years now, Molly Goddard’s talent reaffirmed her powerful position in the fashion industry. From Central Saint Martin’s graduate, to sought after fashion designer, Molly Goddard’s collection is definitely one for an edgy girly girl.
Edie Campbell started the party, strutting down the runway with a glass of wine in one hand and an e-cigarette in the other. Edie oozed confidence in her ankle-grazing white dress, cut slightly off-kilter line. Her party girl, carefree attitude set the tone for the show, with several models dancing and displaying playful expressive poses as they hit the runway.
Molly Goddard’s smocking and tulle signature style remained prevalent throughout. Styled with black chunky boots, brogues and even bare foot; the SS18 collection proved to be a cool girl’s antidote to a conventional princess dress. The pushed back permed hair ensured the focus remained on the models dark eye make-up, reinforcing the edgier touch. Ellie Morris, a make-up artist, discusses how the choice of make-up emphasised Goddard’s show notes and theme, “the bold, brash make-up definitely incorporated the party girl vibes.”
Goddard showed versatility and creativity, featuring swingy cotton and sequin mini dresses. The collection remained whimsical and romantic, yet sexy and cool with the majority of the garments being simple and monochromatic; making the few looks of colour, pop.
Smart tailored blazers in shiny, jewel toned satin really displayed Molly Goddard’s talent and skill, with the yellow blazer and sequin skirt being a Spotlight favourite. Goddard proved she doesn’t need to stick to her signature tulle dresses, as heavier cotton with smocking and ruched detailing, evidenced her excellent fabric manipulation techniques and versatility.
Erin O’Connor closed the show with a 1940s inspired midi dress with shimmering sequin overlay, revealing a black tulle petticoat hanging beneath. The pretty tulle fabrics styled with black chunky footwear and dark make-up created the perfect balance for a girly yet tough look. In summery, Molly Goddard’s collection certainly emphasised her quirky show notes, with a joyous blend of fearlessness and vampy aesthetic.